Cutting flowers from a home garden and arranging them attractively
doesn't require the skills of a Master Gardener,
but a Penn State
Cooperative Extension gardening expert says the picking is easier if
gardeners remember a few tips.
"When you walk in the garden to cut blooms, the stems should be placed
immediately in water, a process we call conditioning," says Emile
Swackhamer, horticultural extension agent in Lehigh County, PA.
"Flowers that have been conditioned in water look fresher and last
longer in arrangements."
Swackhamer recommends carrying a bucket partially filled with
lukewarm water to put flowers in as they are cut. Choose flowers with
longer stems, so they can be re-cut later to fit an arrangement. "Use
sharp shears," Swackhamer says. "Make the cut above a bud to ensure new
growth and more flowers."
The best time to cut flowers? In early morning, just as the dew is
drying, or in the evening. Never cut flowers during hot temperatures,
particularly in the afternoon. "Cut only the most perfect blooms,"
Swackhamer says. "Observe the garden to see when the flowers reach
their most beautiful stage. That is the time to cut, and it will vary
from one flower to another."
Swackhamer recommends cutting cluster flowers (such as delphinium,
foxglove or lilac) before all the flowers are open. Other flower types,
such as sunflowers or zinnias, must be fully open before cutting.
Cut flowers should be arranged loosely to allow air to circulate,
and water should be lukewarm during conditioning for most flower
varieties. Keep the flowers in the water at room temperature for
several hours or overnight. Swackhamer says gardeners can use a flower
preservative in the water. "They make flowers last longer by
maintaining the acidity level at a pH between 3.5 and 5," she says.
To prepare cut flowers for arrangements, first remove most of the
leaves. "They will rot and foul the water, and stems will look better,"
Swackhamer says. Then, double-check which lengths you want, and re-cut
the stems underwater. Cutting underwater will eliminate bubbles that
can prevent stems from taking up moisture. "Stems are cut on a slant so
they can take in the most amount of water available when resting on the
bottom of a vase or container," she explains.
To make an arrangement last as long as possible, cut stems and
change the water and preservative every day. Keep the flowers out of
direct sunlight and store them in a cool spot overnight. "I put them
out on the porch where the temperature is cool and the humidity is
high," Swackhamer says.
* SPECIAL CONDITIONING POINTERS
Milky sap flowers (asclepias, poppies, poinsettias): To prevent
sticky sap from blocking water uptake, place the stem in boiling water
for ten seconds or hold it over a candle flame to sear the end.
Woody stems (lilacs, butterfly bush, mock orange, rhododendrons):
Split the stems with shears to allow more moisture to be absorbed. "Be
careful not to crush the stem," Swackhamer says.
Foliage: "Ornamental leaves are best conditioned standing upright, like flowers," Swackhamer says.
* WHEN TO CUT
Fully open: Calendula, black-eyed susan, gaillardia, dahlia and zinnia.
Half-to-fully open: Anemone, azalea, bachelor's button, bee balm, daisy, daylily, delphinium and lilac.
Others: Bleeding heart (four or five florets open), daffodil (as
color shows in bud), gladiolus (one to five buds showing color), iris
(as first bud opens), poppy (night before opening) and tulip (from bud
to half open). Roses should be cut as the second petal unfurls above a
five-petal leaf.