THE sailor who stood on the deck to greet us as we came on board was a woman. Wearing a blue-and-white striped nautical shirt
with a few strands of her tied-back, blonde hair blowing in the wind, she was perfect for the part. Julia du Rietz is a Swede, very fair, not tanned, but with muscles as toned and lean as any sailor. She met her
captain, Patrice Francheschi on shore in Sweden and became part of a big adventure when they bought the 1916 sailing ship, La Boudeuse. That was about four years ago and now they have a three year old son, Orso who is growing up onboard ship. Orso has the run of the ship, inventing games and making toys out of whatever he can find onboard. Hoisting the SailsIt is late afternoon with the sun falling in a gold mist beyond Muttrah harbour. As the tall ship sways in a slightly rough sea, Julia takes us on tour, starting with the ship's deck. A jungle of ropes hanging from the masts represents an intricate system for hoisting the sails."There is a
different rope for each part of each sail. The hoisting of the sails on three giant masts is a beautiful sight to see. All hands are on deck, straining and pulling together. It is tremendously tiring, like all sailors' work, but you feel so satisfied because you participate in everything, in every way. And you immediately see the result of your efforts." Julia is always smiling, but as she says this, she seems down right radiant — and immediately you want to sign up as a sailor on La Boudeuse. Julia's Office on Board La BoudeuseWhen we reach the iconic wooden wheel with which the Captain steers the ship, Julia shows with ease us how it is done. Later we see the domain where she, as chief Administration Officer, is Captain — a snug study with a computer, some books and many papers neatly stacked on shelves. Julia also works for periods of time in the Paris office of the Boudeuse enterprise — planning, organising, raising funds and marketing the Boudeuse adventure books, DVDs and videos that keep the ship afloat. But she is just as often sailing over the waves en route to another adventure, such as the stop at Wallis and Futuna. A Faraway French Island"I loved Futuna, a tiny volcanic island in the South Pacific between Fiji and Samoa that is still part of France. There are actually three islands — Wallis, Futuna and Alofi. They are lovely tropical islands with beautiful lagoons encircled by coral reefs. The Islands still have a king, but they are part of the French Republic. The experience of these faraway islands and their culture marked me very much. The people are mainly Polynesian and they have a different way of thinking. Money is not at the centre of everything. Their way of life is far more spiritual and fulfilling." Julia has many such experiences to relate, but mentions also the tremendous peace of sailing for weeks on end without passing another boat; and, each day, knowing only the sea and its wild life. The ship becomes a tiny island floating through time, part of a cycle of nature. A Small Child's Education on boardWe also talked about practical concerns, like schooling for Orso and his safety on board. "He already has a valuable education for a small child because he meets so many different people around the world. Orso is tolerant and adaptable and does not think people who are a different colour or who have a new way of dressing are anything but normal."Real PiratesThe idea of pirates is exciting for kids, but modern, gun-toting ship raiders are very real threat. "We avoid the places where pirates are known to operate, like the Strait of Malacca, and are cautious at night. We are not allowed to carry arms, except for the Captain, who can carry a small hand gun. And so, you can sometimes feel vulnerable, but we use all the known techniques to minimize the chance of running into real pirates". In the KitchenWho does the cooking for a crew of 13 hardworking, hungry sailors? — Everybody. Each person on board takes his or her turn in the ship'y kitchen. Julia remarks that there are four women on board and she likes it when there are at least that many women, because it changes the atmosphere for the better. An Extraordinary LifeI ask Julia how long she will lead this extraordinary life which, however romantic and fulfilling, also has its risks and uncertainties, not the least of which is funding. She answers with an assured glance seaward — "As long as I can!"