Laila Tyabji, the guest editor of Marg’s special issue interprets the voices of Indian textile
through the
contemporary
craftspeople, designers and craft NGOs. In eleven essays and rich visuals Tyabji and
her co-authors present a brief but empathetic overview of some of the many
textile traditions that make up the warp and weft of the Indian tradition. The
essays trace the relentless march of the inherent technology
contemporary modernity and the influence of globalisation and the market on the traditional
craft. The traditional Indian craft covered include the Rabari, Chikankari, Chippa, Bagh & Phulkari, Doria, Kashmiri and Lambada
embroidery and Sujuni. The
transmutation in the lives of the master weavers of Bhujodi is also given. The authors drawn from all over the globe
prove the extent of admirers of Indian textile craft. Judy Fraser, an
anthropologist who has specialised in the textile tradition of the kachh has
written two essays in the nature of conversations with local craftspeople Lachhu
Ben Raja and Pahi Ben Soma and the Vishramji family. In these essays
anthropology and textile practice are leavened together to give an insight into
how technology brought about transformation in the lives of these stoic women
of Kachh. An enchanting portrayal of Chikankari tradition of Lucknow is made sensitive by the question, is
chikankari a metaphor of the human
condition and its spiritual path? Sewa, the noted NGO has succeeded in breaking
the stranglehold of the middlemen so that the women engaged in this tradition
finally get their due. Meeta and Sunny present a delightful account of how a
couple Raghunath and Kalavati became prosperous in Chippa of Kaladera. Jasleen Dhamija brings alive the Phulkari
tradition of Punjab, Urzamma and Annapurna of Andhra Pradesh record their travails in reviving the hand
woven cotton Doria and Jenny Housego tells her Kashmir story.